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Wednesday, August 17, 2005

Where are the Dutch?


Where are the Dutch? The conquerors of the ocean, the travelers you will find in any remote village, the nation that is well known for it’s football players, cheese and stroopwafels.

Where are you guys?

It seems I am surrounded by three nationalities. First of all Ghanaians. My direct colleague is Ghanaian, the person sitting opposite to me is from Gahan and the whole road between me and and the top of the UN is Ghanian. My direct boss, our divisional director, the executive secretary (also under Secretary General) and last but not least mr. Annan are all Ghanaian.
Then we have the Germans (or German-speaking). My landlord is a German and four of my direct colleagues and here are German. Including their partners (which I meet, because the Germans are also part of my social life) this means Addis is not the place you want to watch Germany beat Holland in a football match (luckily this will never happen).

But then there is this last category. The Maltese. Originating from a small island in the Mediterranean where they live with probably not more then 400.000 inhabitants, they have decided to surround me during my stay here in Addis. I have by now met at least 4 Maltese here and am aware of two or three more (of this group 4-5 are either priest of nun). And until now I have been able to regulate my points of contact outside of the UN-compound. But this peaceful situation has ended since one of my colleagues returned from leave and being Maltese as well to my surprise. Luckily all the Maltese are a blessing to be around with, since they are rather straightforward and funny.

But the question remains: WHERE ARE THE DUTCH?

There is the ‘Old Milkhouse’ full of Dutch flags and cows and ‘Wim’s Holland House’ which suggests the Dutch must be all around or at least continuously in these two bars. But until now have only been able to spot one. ONE!

If you know where they are hiding or if the Dutch embassy has decided to evacuate all of them, please inform me ASAP.

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

The history of coffee

Ancient history tells the story of Kaldi, an Ethiopian goat-herder, thought to be the first to discover the mythical properties of coffee. He was so amazed at the dancing of his goats after they had eaten some berries from a nearby shrub that he decided to try some of the ripe, red ‘cherries’ for himself. The pleasant, stimulating effect they produced led him to share his discovery with the local monks. Coffee quickly evolved into a ceremonial drink. Keeping the monks awake during their long hours of prayer.

Arabic scientific documents dating from around AD 900 refer to a beverage drunk in Ethiopia, Known as ‘buna’ (coffee in Amharic), and the similarities in the words suggests that this could be one of the earliest references to Ethiopian, coffee in its brewed form. It is recorded that in 1454 the Mufti of Aden visited Ethiopia, and saw his own countrymen drinking coffee there. He was reportedly impressed with the drink, which cured him of some affliction, and his approval made it soon popular among the dervishes of the Yemen who used it in religious ceremonies, and introduced it to Mecca

From the Arabian Peninsula coffee traveled to the East. The Arabs are credited with first bringing coffee to Sri Lanka (Ceylon) as early as 1505 by one Baba Budan on his return from a pilgrimage to Mecca in the 17th century.

By 1517 coffee had reached Constantinople, following the conquest of Egypt by Salim I, and it was established in Damascus by 1530. Coffee houses were opened in Constantinople in 1554, and their advent provoked religiously inspired riots that temporarily closed them. But they survived their critics, and their luxurious interiors became a regular rendezvous for those engaged in radical political thought and dissent.

Venetian traders had introduced coffee to Europe by 1615, a few years later than tea which had appeared in 1610. Again its introduction aroused controversy in Italy when some clerics, like the mullahs of Mecca, suggested it should be excommunicated, as it was the Devil’s work. However, Pope Clement VIII (1592- 1605) enjoyed it so much that he declared that ‘coffee should be baptized to make it a true Christian drink.’
The first coffee house opened in Venice in 1683. The famous Café Florian in the Piazza San Marco, established in 1720, is the oldest surviving coffee house in Europe. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries coffee houses proliferated in Europe. Nothing quite like the like the coffee houses, or café, had ever existed before, the novelty of a place to enjoy a relatively inexpensive and stimulating beverage in convivial company established a social habit that has endured for over 400 years.

In 1616 the Dutch gained a head start in the grand-scale cultivation by taking a coffee plant from Mocha to the Netherlands, and they began cultivation in Sri Lanka in1658. In 1699 cuttings were successfully transplanted from Malabar to Java. Samples of Java coffee plants were sent to Amsterdam in 1706, were seedlings were grown in botanical gardens and distributed to horticulturists throughout Europe.

A few years later, in 1718, the Dutch transplanted the coffee to Surinam and soon after the plant became widely established in South America, which was to become the coffee center of the world.

In 1878 the story of coffee’s journey around the world came full circle when the British laid foundations of Kenya’s coffee industry by introducing plants to British East Africa right next to neighboring Ethiopia, where coffee had first been discovered a 1,000 years before.

Today Ethiopia, is Africa’s major exporter of Arabica beans, the quality coffee of the world, and the variety that originated in Ethiopia, is still the only variety grown there. Coffea Arabica, which was identified by the botanist Linnaeus in 1753, is one of the two major species used in most production, and presently accounts around 70 per cent of the world’s coffee.

In Ethiopia’s province of Kaffa,from which its name derives, a large proportion of the arabica trees grow wild amidst the rolling hills and forests of the fertile and beautiful region.

Monday, August 08, 2005

Three weeks in Addis

Three weeks in Addis and loving it more every day. Last week I moved out of the hotel, but before I could move into Villa Jens I had to buy a bed at Merkato (the largest market in East-Africa). Together with Thea, a Maltese priest and two Ethiopians we started our adventure around Merkato buying a frame and a mattress from two different places, getting a 4x4-taxi to pick it both up (really separate sides of Merkato) and drive to Jens his house (still with 5 of us packed in the taxi, together with the bed). Once we completed this adventure, the next was to actually assemble the bed. An assignment that makes Ikea furniture Childs play.



During the week I was positively surprised by me new desk and computer (the administrative assistant already talked about it, but you never know when these things arrive). Only problem was that during the change of computers my work of the week, which I just finished, got lost on both the old and new computer. Well had a print-out, so a good opportunity to train my typing-speed.


On Saturday morning we were supposed to help out at a neighbourhood-centre near my house with handing out food and clothes to the children in the area, but unfortunately it was cancelled last minute. Today (Tuesday) I got to actually see the centre and meet with the volunteers and talk about their needs. Unfortunately Public Administration is not a class they give to the kids, so guess I’ll try to help out with more practical stuffJ. With the weekend free, it finally became my first real complete relaxing weekend. Joined Thea’s Ericsson-party on Friday-night and ended up at Memo’s (one of the better clubs here, but still dodgy). Slept in on Saturday and went for some coffee’s and ice-cream at Kaldi’s (a copy of Starbucks) with Jens, Thea and Femi (a former AIESEC, who arrived earlier that week for a holiday-trip through Ethiopia). In the evening we off to test (again) some real Ethiopian Injerra at a real Ethiopian restaurant. There are three types: Bad ones, good ones for upper-class and expats and good ones for Ethiopians. We of-course went to the last type, where we were a true attraction for the other guests, being the only faranji (foreigners). The evening was closed at the Black Rose, a very good and relaxed lounge near our house. On Sunday Thea prepared a very nice lunch at her Hilton-apartment for the four of us, after we got to see Chelsea beat Arsenal. What better weekend, than spending time with great people, great food/drinks and no rush.



Some reflections:
It is a strange experience living in a country where the poverty is so visible, the expat-community (NGO, UN, corporate) so large and you feel in the middle. On the one hand you have your daily work and comfortable life and on the other hand you feel you want to contribute more directly as well. I’m happy I am slowly seeing more opportunities that might be good ways to spend some spare-time on some hands-on development work, next to the strategic work of preparing the conference. I think I’ve also found my way of dealing with the many beggars on the street, by taking them to a bakery or other shop and provide them with the supplies for a decent meal for their families. You can not do this continually as you most of the are in a car on your way to work or an appointment. But whenever I have the time it is starting to become my new habit and it is addictive. But this is just a small thing, that doe not really help them further in the long run. Therefore will continue with looking for some voluntary-work that suits me (no clue what, but will find something) and that helps break the cycle of poverty a bit (vocational and literacy education being the biggest step, but these are not my fields of expertise).

I will also try to share you some of Ethiopia’s great beauty and history in upcoming blogs. This country has all (accept a beach) to make it as a tourist-country. History that goes back thousands of years, medieval castles, Emperors that lasted until the 70’s, the only African country that has never been colonized and, for some most important, the place coffee originates from.

New Pictures

Dear friends,

Have many experiences to share again of two weekends and one week.
See the new pictures for a first preview. More stories later.

ADDIS, I'M LOVING IT!


Sjoerd
 

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